We went to the first ever Michelin Guide New Zealand awards ceremony… here’s our take on what happened
OPINION
It was a glorious night for New Zealand’s hospitality industry – more than 110 recognitions handed out by the legendary Michelin Guide to incredible Kiwi restaurants across the country.
It was more than anyone expected – a true reflection of just how good our kai and our manaakitanga truly is – and we even scored a rare two-Michelin star award, with Essence in Queenstown taking top honours.
Sitting in the media section, let me tell you the vibes in the room were HIGH – Michelin spared no expense for the glittering ceremony and when I say the word they went for was clearly dramatic I’m not exaggerating, from the striking red and black colour scheme through to the one booming, cinematic instrumental song that played on a loop all night, clearly designed to mark the *significance* of the occasion. It was bloody impressive, to be honest, and it was a thrill to be there.
And it was also a joyous night for a struggling industry where the nation’s top chefs got to revel in their success with their colleagues.
There were cheers, there were whoops, there were gasps of delight as restaurant names were read out for Michelin ‘selected’ restaurants (basically a highly commended), the Bib Gourmand restaurants (not quite a star, but amazing and recognises excellence at more affordable prices) and of course, the ones who received stars.
Tourism New Zealand invested more than $6m to bring the famed Michelin Guide to New Zealand, a move clearly aimed to invigorate food tourism, with an estimated 36,000 more visitors expected, says the Minister for Tourism and Hospitality Louise Upston.
While Michelin coming to New Zealand is no doubt a coup, it hasn’t been without its controversies.
Some Kiwi chefs such as Al Brown (who owns and runs my personal favourite restaurant, Depot) weren’t keen for Michelin to come to New Zealand – he told RNZ last year that there is a ‘dark side’ to the star system, saying “chefs have taken their lives over Michelin stars and I don’t get that, I don’t want any of that… food comes from a happy place, it should be kitchens that are full of aroha and hard work and great produce and all the rest of it, but if we’re living and dying by a star system, I don’t think that’s healthy at all.”
Unsurprisingly, Depot didn’t make the list.
But the biggest elephant in the room last night was whether Amisfield would receive an honour. It’s been one of New Zealand’s most lauded and celebrated culinary destinations for years, and ordinarily one would have thought it would’ve been a shoo-in. But it’s been mired in controversy this year after executive chef Vaughan Mabee resigned amidst multiple allegations of serious workplace misconduct.
Mabee apologised to former staff members in May this year, saying he had “fallen short”. A former staff member alleged assault, and The Press spoke to multiple former colleagues who allege bullying was “commonplace”, as well as alcohol abuse, lewd comments and physical aggression over a period of years.
In the same statement, Mabee said he “let my team, myself and my family down” and he “unreservedly apologised”.
And yet, despite these admissions and apologies, Amisfield was still awarded a coveted one star.
“That’s disgusting,” said a colleague sitting next to me as their name was announced, amongst similar sentiments in the audience. The murmurings continued as new head chef Sun Peng accepted the award, dedicating it to his team who, presumably, have been through hell and back over the last few months.
But even taking into account the hard-working team who have done absolutely nothing wrong in this sad situation, there is no way Amisfield should have been awarded a star.
In a statement to the Herald when asked about Amisfield’s viability to receive an award, they said they wouldn’t comment on specific situations, but made sure to emphasise that stars are given to restaurants, not chefs, and “the Michelin Guide firmly condemns all forms of violence, harassment, or abuse, whether physical or psychological. Such behaviours are incompatible with the values of humanism and excellence that the Guide has upheld since its creation”.
And yet, a star.
Mabee’s alleged abuse wasn’t a one-off event – it was a pattern of behaviour that Amisfield’s owners at best ignored, or worst, covered up for years. Amisfield’s owner John Darby confirmed to Stuff that complaints about Mabee were made in 2016 and 2022, which resulted in written warnings, and more complaints were received this year. Mabee was continued to be employed, where he continued to act in a dangerous and offensive manner because, I assume, he is a bonafide genius. But exceptional talent does not give you carte blanche to act however you want – especially at the expense of other, more vulnerable people.
In that same statement, Mabee described his alleged abuse as “foibles”, saying “I would just hope that anyone who reads these articles will understand that I am a human. And take into account that those of us who strive for outrageous goals, sometimes have difficult journeys because of the stress and pressure that accompany those goals. I just hope that my redemption, in the long run, will be as compelling as my foibles.”
Accountability? Not so much.
While I understand the star is awarded to the restaurant, not the chef, the fact remains that this star was earned off the back of people’s suffering at Amisfield. Staff were abused and taken advantage of throughout the period in which Amisfield made a name for itself as a pioneer of innovative, Kiwi fine dining. While those still working at Amisfield might feel that’s a little harsh – and yes, it probably is – what about those who have left and still have to deal with the effects of their tenure?
And why does an owner who knew what was going on with his star chef now get to bask in the glory of a star?
For me, awarding a star at the next event, with some time and distance and a true focus on the new team trying their best to make a positive change, would have been far more meaningful.
There were, of course, far more beautiful, positive and exciting moments throughout the night, including a very visibly emotional chef Henry Onesemo accepting the one-star award for Tala, becoming the first ever Samoan restaurant to receive such an accolade, and in return receiving a standing ovation from an excited audience – as did Chef Paul Froggatt, whose restaurant Essence became the only Kiwi establishment to win two stars.
The fact remains that it was a stellar night for Aotearoa’s incredible hospitality industry – and for a nation that usually loves a tall poppy, it was fantastic to see so much excellence celebrated on a global scale. It’s the furtherest the Michelin Guide has ever travelled, and we’re the first ones in Oceania to have the guide (even Aussie doesn’t have it, so small win there?!).
Here’s hoping such success continues in 2027 – and I’ll for sure be cheering on the new and improved Amisfield.
MICHELIN STAR WINNERS:
Auckland
Ahi
Mudbrick (Waiheke Island)
Paris Butter
Tala
Tantalus Estate Restaurant (Waiheke Island)
Wellington
Jano Bistro
Logan Brown
Ortega Fish Shack
Christchurch
Inati
Tussock Hill
Queenstown
Amisfield
Essence – two stars
Kika (Wānaka)
Rātā
Sherwood
BIB GOURMAND WINNERS:
Auckland
Apero Food & Wine
Atelier
Bianca
Bistro Saine
Boda
Cazador
Gemmayze Street
Goat
Milenta
Osteria Uno
Paloma Taqueria
Parro
Pasta & Cuore
Tempero
Wellington
154 Pastaria
Cicio Cacio
Hummingbird
Indian Alley
Christchurch
A’mano
The Athens Yacht Club
The Monday Room
Fire and Slice
Gatherings
Londo
Odeon
Roca
Soul Quarter
Queenstown
Aosta
Bombay Palace
Francesca
Muttonbird
Sundays
The Cow
Treehouse
