Kelly Bertrand and her partner head to Samoa to see if this rugged gem is all its cracked up to be!
When you get an email from a PR company that simply says ‘do you want to go to Samoa’, of course the answer is most definitely yes (before you roll your eyes and say ‘nice for some’ yes, I know and I’m with you, but if it helps matters I have an entire day of toiling over Xero accounts to look forward to later).
So while I jetted off to Samoa (my fiancé in tow to ‘carry the bags’) with great excitement, the biggest question I wanted answered for this story is ‘why Samoa?’. Kiwis have long had affinity with the Cook Islands and Fiji as our default Pacific Islands of choice when it comes to escaping the dreary Aotearoa winter.
I figured that you reading this story would probably want to know too – so here’s what I got up to on a five-day trek around Samoa’s two biggest islands, what I recommend, what I don’t and why you might want to book a ticket yourself.
The vibe:
Let’s get this out of the way straight away: If you love the fancier things about an island holiday – fancy spa treatments, flash food and a more resort-style experience – Samoa probably isn’t for you.
While Fiji treats tourists like VIPs – regardless of how much you’re actually spending – and you can’t move 10 metres without someone shouting out ‘BULA!’ to you, Samoa’s approach to the tourist is much more laid back.
Everything about Samoa is more low-key, from the accommodation options, the infrastructure, the people and the itineraries.You’ll hear words like ‘untouched’ and ‘rugged’ and ‘unpolished’ bandied around about Samoa and yuuuup, this is most definitely accurate.
If you’re someone who doesn’t need fancy creature comforts, you prefer to get off the road most travelled and explore on your own time and you just want sun, surf and cold beer, then Samoa IS your vibe.
The islands:
Samoa’s two main islands, Upolu and Savai’i, are rather different from each other – Upolu is smaller but more populated and includes the capital, Apia, while Savai’i is known as ‘the big island’ and is far more rural. We got to explore both (you can jump on a car ferry to get from one to the other) and while Upolu has most of the infrastructure, Savai’i has a distinct charm I rather liked. Don’t miss the Alofaaga Blow Holes (according to our guide we were there on a ‘small day’ but holy hell, I was transfixed.)
I mean who wouldn’t think these “tiny” blowholes are impressive… how high can they get!?
Water is propelled up through the cliff with such force its shot 100s of feet into the air – and if you’re lucky the locals might chuck some coconuts in there as well so you really see how far they fly. Also, the Afu Aau Waterfall is stunning and has the most picturesque swimming hole that you’ll never want to get out of. These little spots are truly the gems of Samoa and are well worth checking out – but remember that access to them is controlled by villages and you’ll need to pay for access. It’s usually only a few tala but make sure you have cash!
Afu Aau waterfall and swimming hole
Upolu is busier, and you can make do with just staying on this island if time or resources are an issue. Unfortunately for us, Samoa’s biggest tourist attraction To Sua Ocean Trench was closed the day we tried to visit – much to our Samoa Tourism guide’s surprise and annoyance, but do expect things like this to crop up during your visit.
Accommodation:
On Savai’I, Amoa Resort is a winner – it’s not the fanciest, it’s not the biggest, but it’s welcoming, relaxed, the staff are lovely and there’s a great pool with a swim-up bar (SOLD) and even a jetty across the road that sticks out into one of the bluest lagoons I’ve ever seen. My partner and I simply sat with our legs dangling off the end for a while, and to our surprise saw a huge turtle swim lazily past.
The jetty!
We were even treated to a special overwater jetty dinner – the lovely staff packed up our pre-ordered dinner and drinks and set up a table and torches on the end of the jetty, just for us. We watched the sun set as we sipped wine and ate fish and chips and it was perfect. I still can’t stop thinking about the moment when one of the staff wheeled a huge speaker over to us and, expecting an island-vibe kind of playlist, were almost blown out of our seats when, inexplicably, Shania Twain’s drawl of Let’s Go Girls rang out instead. It was a glorious mismatch of vibes and immediately endeared me to the lovely crew, and I couldn’t stop laughing (which got worse when the playlist somehow shifted to a veeeery expletive-laden rap number, much to our waiter’s horror who positively SPRINTED to change the song).
Now you’ve got the visual, imagine ‘LET’S GO GIRLS’ coming from absolutely nowhere at maximum volume
On Upolu, if I were you and you didn’t have kiddies in tow, I’d head straight to Seabreeze Resort and not leave. A note on this – I didn’t actually stay there, rather we popped in to have lunch with the owners but my God, how I wished we HAD. This place is pure magic and the most perfect spot for honeymooners – all villas bar one have ocean views, and the honeymoon suite is satiated far away from any other rooms (how thoughtful) and even has what I’ve been calling the sex bell (a bell that staff ring VERY loudly before entering the gate) so you’re very much assured privacy. The resort is proper paradise – a stunning pool, private beach, fab snorkelling and hosts who have thought of literally everything. We’re seriously considering it as a honeymoon destination ourselves.
The view from Seabreeze’s honeymoon suite, complete with commentary from both my partner and I confirming that yes, this would do nicely for our own honeymoon next year
We stayed at Taumeasina Island Resort, and honestly, I’d only recommend this for a night or two – it’s more of a business hotel that’s not really on an island (think Denarau vibes) that has a small beach, a good pool and very modern rooms. It’s not the most hospitable of vibes and it’s more of a local’s bar than a resort, but they do have great activities in the bar at night including bingo, karaoke and trivia that are super-fun.
Why would you go to Samoa?
More of an uncut, unpolished gem, Samoa is very much for those who are after something a little more rugged and real. It’s cheaper to stay in Samoa than other Pacific Islands which is a real boon in a cossie livs crisis, but there are times when you realise that you get what you pay for.
Chilling at Amoa Resort – can confirm the piña coladas are elite
The islands’ natural beauty is stunning – don’t miss the waterfalls, water holes and lagoons – and hell, it’s a Pacific Island, so of course you’re in paradise. One note however; Samoa are currently in the grip of a Dengue Fever outbreak, so check advisories, travel insurance pack a shit tonne of mozzie spray.
Kelly travelled to Samoa with the assistance of Samoa Tourism Authority – but all opinions are her own
