A recent study has found that 1 in 4 Kiwis have recently bought from Temu – the ultra fast, ultra cheap brand. Guest writer Maya Duckworth, Tearfund Advocacy Specialist, looks at the real cost of these super cheap brands and the ethical price that must be paid for a $5 t-shirt.
If you’ve ever been tempted by a $5 t-shirt, you’re certainly not alone. In recent years, ultra-fast fashion brands like Shein, Temu, and Cider have surged in popularity, offering enticing deals that seem too good to pass up. In fact, according to Tearfund’s latest research, it was revealed that over 1-in-4 Kiwis surveyed recently purchased from Temu. That is the equivalent to over one million of us!
‘With the rise of ultra-fast fashion, we’ve normalised the idea that a t-shirt should cost the same as a flat white – and not last much longer.’
It makes sense, we’re facing a cost-of-living crisis and in these circumstances, it seems especially logical to choose a $5 t-shirt over a $50 one. Yet, as someone who’s spent the last few years advocating against exploitation in the fashion industry with Tearfund, I can’t help but have a few questions when I see such low prices. Firstly, how can a t-shirt that cheap, possibly be ethical? And secondly, how should we as consumers react?
Let’s tackle the first question. The dark side of fast fashion is a familiar story to many of us, but ultra-fast fashion takes things to an extreme. It’s even quicker production speeds, even greater variety on offer, even cleverer marketing strategies, and even lower prices. These lower prices have made clothing more affordable, and fashion more accessible for many on stretched incomes. But the ultra-fast fashion approach also risks even more pressure on its workers. To be able to offer quicker and cheaper production times, suppliers often resort to paying their workers less, incentivising or requiring them to work longer hours, and cut corners on health and safety.
The cheap prices of ultra-fast fashion companies are a red flag. So too are their low scores in this year’s Ethical Fashion Report.2 This report, released this week by Baptist World Aid, surveys the world’s biggest fashion brands to see what policies and processes they have in place to mitigate their impact on workers and the environment.
Temu scored 0 out of a possible 100.
This rock-bottom score is a result of their noticeable lack of transparency, and their decision not to provide any further evidence to the Ethical Fashion Report researchers. In the fashion industry, transparency is now considered the standard. If brands don’t disclose any information publicly, it becomes impossible to determine whether the company is taking any steps to protect the wellbeing of the workers in its supply chains. Even though other ultra-fast fashion brands like Shein scored slightly higher (20 out of 100), signaling at least basic transparency and some minimal policies, it’s clear that these companies need to be doing much more to ensure meaningful protections for workers.
This brings me to my second question; how should we react? As consumers, we are up against highly skilled marketing teams, backed by huge budgets and advanced AI technology, all designed to keep us constantly buying. Consequently, many of us find ourselves caught in the grip of ultra-fast fashion’s relentless cycle.
The cheaper the clothes, the more we buy, and the more we buy, the more similar clothing ultra-fast fashion brands produce. Since these clothes are often cheaply made, they wear out quickly, leading to faster disposal and the need to replace them sooner.
Shein’s latest sustainability report celebrates that most customers wear their clothes at least 10 times. But it is troubling that wearing something just 10 times is now considered an achievement. With the rise of ultra-fast fashion, we’ve normalised the idea that a t-shirt should cost the same as a flat white – and not last much longer.
While we may not be responsible for the exploitation occurring in the fashion industry – an issue Tearfund is actively addressing through advocacy with governments and businesses – we’re still participants in a system of immense injustice. I know that my demand for cheap clothing helps fuel the ultra-fast fashion beast.
So, here’s what I do when I’m thinking about whether to buy a new, cheap t-shirt:
I consider if I really need it. I ask myself some honest questions: am I just chasing that dopamine hit from a new purchase? Am I hoping this one purchase will fix the low self-esteem I’m feeling? Do I already own something similar?
Then I question whether I can afford to look for a more ethical alternative. Can I spend the time looking at the op shop? Or if my finances allow, I’ll look for brands that have good supplier relationships, are committed to paying a living wage, or whose design will enable me to wear it many, many times.
Thirdly, I challenge myself on whether I’ll look after it well. Will I wear this t-shirt at least 30 times? Would I be willing to repair it if needed?
Then, I make my decision based on these reflections. My choice isn’t always the same; different situations can shape my response. But, when possible, I aim to support a fairer fashion industry.
If this resonates with you, I invite you to join me.
Statement from Temu:
A Temu Spokesperson has responded:
“Temu operates an online marketplace connecting consumers with third-party merchants. Apparel is just one of the dozens of product categories offered on our platform and not the main focus.
Our competitive prices result from streamlining the supply chain and eliminating middlemen. Many traditional retailers and platforms rely on middlemen to source products from the same manufacturers that sell on Temu. With our direct-from-factory model, consumers avoid paying the added intermediary costs and markup.
Temu is committed to upholding ethical, humane, and lawful business practices, as outlined in our Third-Party Code of Conduct. Our business partners and third-party merchants must comply with strict standards regarding labor, safety, and environmental protection. We reserve the right to end relationships with those who do not meet these requirements.
We remain focused on building a safe, fair, and trustworthy platform for consumers and merchants.”
Maya Duckworth is Tearfund’s Advocacy Specialist. Tearfund has spent nearly a decade researching and advocating for improved conditions for workers in the fashion industry, as part of their anti-exploitation work internationally. This week they released fresh research into New Zealanders’ habits with and perspectives on fast fashion – you can read all the rest of the findings here.
Citations:
- The survey conducted by Horizon Research took place in July 2024, with a sample of 1,049 participants, demographically weighted to match the New Zealand adult population. The survey had a maximum margin of error at a 95% confidence level of ±3%. The question asked was, “How many items of new clothing have you purchased for yourself from any of these fashion companies in the past 3 months?”. 28% of respondents had purchased at least 1 item from Temu.
- Baptist World Aid’s Ethical Fashion Report 2024.
